Moosewood Restaurant

215 N. Cayuga St., Dewitt Building

Feeling particularly hungry and in the mood for a healthy vegetarian meal, I sauntered over to Moosewood Restaurant for an early afternoon helping of warming food on a chilly autumn day.

I sat at the bar since all three sections of the place were filled with a steady stream of both regulars and visitors. Between making cappuccinos and mixed drinks with astonishing speed, the bartender, one of the 19 owners, placed the menu, which changes daily, in front of me.

Everything was less than $10. That day's offerings included Chunky Guacamole Pita, Tunisian Stew (from one of the restaurant's dozen or so cookbooks), Mushroom Cheese Torta, Thai Curried Sweet Potato-Coconut Soup (a vegan option) and Buddha's Jewels, baked tofu-peanut-vegetable croquettes.

The setting at this culinary hotspot is simple and rustic, with mellow yellow walls, espresso brown carpeting and pine wood tables and chairs surrounded by expansive windows and local art. From where I was seated, I had a clear view of one of several chalkboards boldly announcing the day's special smoothies, fall cocktails, local beer on tap and Dennis' mouth-watering ice cream (Chocolate Cookie Crunch and Pumpkin Pie stood out). I was impressed with the weekly discounts: 10 percent off for college employees on Tuesdays, 10 percent off for New York state public teachers on Wednesdays, and 15 percent off for all students on Thursdays.

My lunchtime feast began with something marvelous: a large, blue Moosewood mug of hot ginger tea. The bright orange froth, featuring slices of lemon and orange floating on the surface, was beautifully paired with fresh ginger; it was lip-smackingly delicious. This drink tasted so curative that I felt like I was at a European spa.

Next, I chose the creamy onion soup. I ordered one cup, but within seconds, I ordered another. One spoonful of this soup, with its subdued creaminess, was as addicting as eating a bag of potato chips.

My entrée, the Mexican Squash Casserole, was brought out by a high-spirited, healthy-looking waitress. The bottom layer, a dense, yellow, stone-ground polenta, received most of my attention. Atop the polenta were wilted green garlicky kale, sumptuously soft butternut squash, corn and cheese custard. Tomato-cilantro salsa rounded out the dish, resulting not only in a picturesque presentation, but a fresh collection of well- balanced flavors.

My next guiltless indulgence was a $5 slice of Texas Italian Cream Cake. This dessert, like all of the ones sold at Moosewood, was made in house. The restaurant always offers at least one vegan and one gluten-free dessert, as well. I eagerly sank my fork into the almond-colored cake, which contained a liberal portion of coconut and chopped pecans. Coating this generous piece of inspiration was an all-natural, sweet, cream cheese frosting, giving the subtle nut flavors of the cake extra jazz, particularly with the sprinkling of crunchy, oven-toasted pieces of coconut.

Moosewood has been around for more than 30 years. Now I know why.

The damage

* $24.30

* Moosewood Restaurant is located at 215 N. Cayuga St., Ithaca, in the Dewitt Building. The restaurant is open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and for dinner from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 5:30 to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday. The bar and café are open from 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Call 273-9610 or visit www.moosewoodrestaurant.com.